98integrals wrote:It seems like the more I work on my to do list the longer it gets.I think a good start would be to figure out why the car wont crank.
Wiring is so much fun
my list does the same.
figure it out y0! symptoms (other than not cranking)?
I'm ~75% sure its the wiring between the starter cut relay and the starter solenoid. When you turn the key to start everything happens (fuel pump, spark) but no crank. When I got the car it had an alarm installed that didn't work and when I pulled it out I was really sick of working on wiring so I did a half-assed job of putting everything back together and over the last few years the wiring kinda rattled itself apart.
Haha I've done similar. At first I thought it was the solenoid on the starter so I pulled the one off the Integra to see if that would work (working track car > working daily) but it didn't.
cheezthis wrote:Starter ground? That left me stranded for awhile once before I realized the ground wasn't tight. The grommet was still on there, but yeah, not tight.
Same ground gave me a scare at E6. That monday morning, went to the gas station just before the drivers meeting, came back out and no power. Nothing.
After some wiggling of ground wires I came across that one and just barely made it back to the track in time.
Well it turns out the wiring is just fine and now I have no clue what it is. So that narrows it down to the Main relay, the ignition switch,the starter cut relay, or...the battery... Probably should have swapped that first .
Unrelated, how hard is this place on brakes?
Edit- well now the civic starts . I swapped over the battery and main relay from the Integra and it started right up.... and the integra still starts too . I will never understand Hondas.
Completed:
New distributor cap/rotor, ignitor, plugs, wires
Engine/Tranny oil change
Coolant flush
New front swaybar endlinks
Touched up brake calipers, new front street pads, new fluid
To do:
Valve adjustment
Change clutch fluid
Change power steering fluid
Clay bar/wax
Nut/bolt car
Prepare myself for 900 miles of driving with a fixed back seat and Spoon N1...
98integrals wrote:Well it turns out the wiring is just fine and now I have no clue what it is. So that narrows it down to the Main relay, the ignition switch,the starter cut relay, or...the battery... Probably should have swapped that first .
Unrelated, how hard is this place on brakes?
Edit- well now the civic starts . I swapped over the battery and main relay from the Integra and it started right up.... and the integra still starts too . I will never understand Hondas.
Ha, that's hilarious, Jack.
...
Brakes at Autobahn Full...hmm. It's a track where your average speed is higher than Gingerman (totally guessing as I have no objective data other than my own driving), so the braking can be a bit more, but you usually have some distance between a few turns to cool the brakes. In about 6 sessions of the full configuration last year, I probably killed a 1/3 of on cobalt vr. Again, total guesstimate...it's faster than Gingerman.
I was looking at my track pads last night....gonna need some new ones just to have as backup, haha. Still trying to decide which ones. Dust I can handle....just need to avoid the corrosive stuffs.
Looking more into pads...Carbotech seems to have a tricky bedding procedure...if you don't get it just right, they're like ass. Opinions? Also, do the Hawk HP+ have the same paint corrosive properties as say the blues?
Doespike wrote:Looking more into pads...Carbotech seems to have a tricky bedding procedure...if you don't get it just right, they're like ass. Opinions? Also, do the Hawk HP+ have the same paint corrosive properties as say the blues?
I run HP+'s and I don't exactly rush home to clean my car and it's fine, granted it generally always has a coat of wax on it anyway but none the less.
Doespike wrote:Looking more into pads...Carbotech seems to have a tricky bedding procedure...if you don't get it just right, they're like ass. Opinions? Also, do the Hawk HP+ have the same paint corrosive properties as say the blues?
I've really liked the Cobalt XR3's on front/GTS' (new compound) on rear setup over the past year. I read somewhere that they don't need bedding in - or maybe that was for the XR2's? - but Marc had me run up and down the street by ACC last year to bed them in; not the bad street (Patterson), the good one that branches off to the "east" - it's newly paved and really wide. Not that I'm promoting that as a bed-in zone... :wink, wink, nudge nudge:
haha cool. Yeah, I was starting to lean towards XR3s but cleaning the caR after using the new CSRs was a PITA last year...just trying to find something easy to clean off. Just lazy and that corrosive stuffs gets into my crappy paint and takes real elbow grease to work out even with a wax. HP+ just dust and clean off easy I've read. Dust I can handle no prob.
Doespike wrote:Looking more into pads...Carbotech seems to have a tricky bedding procedure...if you don't get it just right, they're like ass. Opinions? Also, do the Hawk HP+ have the same paint corrosive properties as say the blues?
I have never run anything except Carbotech pads, I am no pro on brake feel but I dont think I have had any problems bedding mine in? I ran stock, then AX6's and I am now on my second set of XP8's. I cant complain, they feel great and stop like I think they should. Another HUGE plus for me has been Carbotechs Customer service
What's different about bedding Carbotechs? I usually jump out on a highway at a night, shoot sparks into the air (and almost into the car before E4 one night) while braking, and then let it cool overnight. You might need to bleed brake fluid in the morning too.
Then again, the last event I was at a couple weeks ago, I put the pads on the car just before going to the track. I did not bed anything...and did fine